Review: Nick's Airport Inn in Hagerstown, MD

Meal: Saturday Dinner
Atmosphere: Refined
Service: Friendly
Prices: Fairly High
Food: Mostly Delicious

Nick's Airport Inn is probably one of the best known upscale restaurants in Hagerstown, MD. This established business has many regular patrons, but it also gets its share of once-a-year crowds for the prom and holidays.

We visited Nick's Airport Inn for a Saturday evening meal. We had reservations, but I don't think they were necessary, as the dining room was never entirely full during our entire visit. The atmosphere of the restaurant is designed to be one of quiet elegance, and overall this is achieved. There are two main dining rooms that are used to seat guests. One dining room includes the bar and a large piano. The other room is maybe a bit more formal, with a sunroom off to the side. The tables are covered in linen tablecloths, and linen napkins are provided. The furnishings seem a bit dated and stuffy, but otherwise it's a comfortable restaurant with an air of refinement.

The hostess who seated us was pleasant. Our water glasses were quickly filled and regularly refilled by the young, somber men who circulated throughout the dining room. Shortly after we were seated, our server arrived promptly to take our drink order. Throughout the meal she was attentive without being pushy, and she remained consistently pleasant.

The menu at Nick's Airport Inn includes a variety of seafoods and meats, including crab cakes, stuffed flounder, shrimp pasta, filet mignon and prime rib. The restaurant offers various specials on a daily basis. Prices vary, but a typical seafood meal is about $24. Meats range in price from $18-$44. The mid-range price of the specials was about $24, too. The Nick's Mussels appetizer costs $9, which is approximately the average price of all the appetizers.

Wines-by-the-glass vary in price, but non-premium wines are about $7/glass. A rum and coke cost $5.25.

We started our meal with the crab bisque, which cost $6.95 for a cup. It was probably the most disappointing aspect of the meal. It was served with two packages of saltine crackers, which was quite unexpected in a restaurant that strives for an "upscale" label. The soup was unlike any other crab bisque I've tasted, and, unfortunately, not in a good way. I found the flavor odd and completely lacking in any type of crab taste. The array of julienned vegetables seemed an unusual addition to crab bisque. Dining Companion (DC) agreed. Though two of us shared this small cup of bisque, we only ate half of it. I doubt I will ever again order the crab bisque at Nick's Airport Inn.

The salads that arrived with our meals were crisp and fresh. The crab cakes—a house specialty—were quite good, too. Nick's Airport Inn uses a bit more “filler” than I like in a crab cake, but it's still less breadcrumbs than you'll find in most area restaurants. The overall flavor of the cakes is light and delicious. They're perfectly cooked so that the large morsels of crab meat are tender, but the exterior of the cake is a light golden brown.

The prime rib ($25.95) was prepared “Medium,” as we requested. Most of it was tender and succulent, though maybe just a tiny bit tough in the center. The mashed potatoes were very slightly runny, but their taste was absolutely divine. If you enjoy mashed potatoes, I highly recommend that you order them if you visit Nick's Airport Inn. They were creamy, rich and completely satisfying. I'm not ashamed to admit that I scooped up every last dab of potatoes. The rice, on the other hand, was average. Although perfectly cooked so that every grain was soft and separated, the overall flavor of the dish was lacking.

DC pronounced the dessert of coconut cream pie as “very good,” which is high praise from a person who thinks chocolate is the only sweet worth consuming. I consider myself a bit of a coconut cream pie connoisseur, however, and I thought the dessert was simply “average.” (Though, in truth, my belly was so full of the delicious mashed potatoes that I had very little appetite for dessert.)

The restroom at Nicks Airport Inn was as expected—clean, fully stocked and tastefully decorated. It's a spacious room and its general decor suggests quiet elegance, which is quite a feat for a restroom.

My verdict: Nick's Airport Inn has a long-standing reputation as a quality upscale restaurant in Hagerstown, MD, and their reputation is deserved. Despite a miss or two (like the crab bisque), my overall dining experience at this restaurant was well worth the hefty price tag. In general, the food is of prime quality and taste, and the service is first-rate.

Nick's Airport Inn is located at 14548 Pennsylvania Avenue in Hagerstown, MD.

Tastefully Yours,

Ms. Dish